Raymond Photography

Here are a few of my tips the next time you want to shoot fireworks!

1. ISO should be set anywhere from 400 or 3200 depending on how much ambient details you would like to add to your composition. In the shot above I used ISO 3200 because I wanted to include some color in the sky and the detail in the trees. Be prepared to change the ISO on the fly.
2. Lens choice again depends on the amount of ambient detail you’d like to include as well as how close you are to the fireworks. For the shot above I had “front row seats” so I used my wide 28mm lens (a true 28mm) to capture the fireworks in the sky as well as the reflection in the water. If I shot with an even wider lens, I would have captured more of the reflection as I was literally a few feet away from the water.
3. Tripod tripod tripod! Enough to say it’s essential. Ball heads are nice or even a pan head.
4. Your camera should be in Bulb mode so you can alter the amount of time the shutter is open according to the “show”. I find that when I’m shooting fireworks, after the initial set up, I just enjoy the show with my finger on the shutter. I just keep clicking away to time the shots with the fireworks display. That way I can enjoy the show too! BTW, the memory above took 1 second to capture.
5. Aperture should be set anywhere from f/8 to f/11. The memory above was captured at f/9.
6. Look at the back LCD screen every few shots to make sure you’re getting what you want and adjust as necessary.

Hope that helps and keep safe when enjoying fireworks my friends!

Raymond Photography © 2010

28mm
f/8.0
1.0 sec
ISO 3200
5D Mark II

Canada Day 2010 @ Ashbridges Bay

Raymond Photography © 2010

I’ve been shooting for several years now and the one thing that is always a work in progress is learning to light my subjects. I’ve used continuous lights, small strobes, sunlight, big strobes, and even flash lights to light my subjects in order to get the shots that I want. I believe there is always something to learn in lighting and the learning never stops. As a photographer, I’m always facing unique subjects to light and it really is all about getting what you can from what you have. Creativity plays a big part and you need to be on your toes because subjects don’t often like to wait.

For the most part, I have found small strobes to be the most portable and easy to implement in a wide variety of situations. There is even great power in simply using on-camera flash and bouncing it.

I will continue to learn to light anything and everything in my journey to let light shape the world around us.

Raymond Photography © 2010

This is simply an exercise in composition to create interest. Rule of thirds, leading lines, repetition, and a tonal range that would make Ansel Adams happy.

Raymond Photography © 2010

This is a shot I got at the Scarborough Bluffs when roaming the “beach” area, which has barely any sand and most small rocks, during sunset. It was actually one of the last frames I captured before calling it a night, and it turned out to be my favourite of the set as well. That often happens when you really start shooting more often and it makes you want to try harder during the shoot/photowalk because you can’t always count on the last few frames to save your butt!

It’s amazing how much great work comes out of pressure situations. Reminds me of my university days when I was being bombarded with deadlines and assignments that were somehow completed competently. Good thing I don’t drink.

© 2009 Raymond Siu - All Rights Reserved

Things aren’t always as they seem — especially when you get closer.

Many times when taking a photo, we always try to frame things in such a way to give context to the subject so there’s a story to tell. Sometimes the story can be summed up by the emotion it renders or evokes, and that can often be represented by an abstract perspective of the subject. Not every photo needs to be completely clear about what the subject is, and that’s the beauty of a photograph. Ambiguity can be implied and create even more interest in an image than if the subject was “well-defined” or documented.

Next time you are shooting a subject, see if you can describe the subject in an abstract approach. Often this means getting closer to the subject than normal, using depth of field to isolate parts of the subject, or even using motion blur to give a brush-stroke look to a photo.